The Black Bay Fifty-Eight is named after the year in which the first TUDOR divers’ watch waterproof to 200 metres, the reference 7924, dubbed the “Big Crown” and was introduced. Among other aesthetic allusions to this famous historic watch, this model has a 39 mm diameter case, in keeping with the characteristic proportions of the 1950s. It is aptly proportioned to suit slim wrists, people who like more compact watches and, of course, vintage enthusiasts. Evocative of a time when TUDOR divers’ watches were first being made, finishing touches in gold have been applied to the hour markers, hands and minute track of the black and steel bezel. The winding crown tube is in satin-brushed steel – a new feature in the Black Bay line – in keeping with the style of the case and winding crown, which bears the TUDOR rose logo in relief.
TUDOR Black Bay Fifty-Eight has a 39 mm diameter case, in keeping with the characteristic proportions of the 1950s.
The Black Bay Fifty-Eight features a dial inspired by the TUDOR divers’ watches of the 1950s. It adopts the characteristic angular hands known to collectors as snowflake, that appeared in the brand’s 1969 catalogue. Finally, the large winding crown, characteristic of the first generation of TUDOR divers’ watches to be waterproof to 200 metres (660 ft), is also alluded to in this model.
The Black Bay Fifty-Eight dial is inspired by the TUDOR divers’ watches of the 1950s.
The Black Bay Fifty-Eight comes with a choice of a riveted steel bracelet with polished and satin finish, a leather or “soft touch” strap with folding clasp, or a fabric strap. One of TUDOR’s signature features, the fabric strap is made using the Jacquard technique, a traditional method achieved by a hundred-year-old family business from the St-Etienne region of France.
The Black Bay Fifty-Eight comes with a choice of a steel bracelet, a leather strap or a fabric strap.
The Manufacture Calibre MT5402, which equips the Black Bay Fifty-Eight, displays hour, minute and second functions. It has the finish typical of TUDOR Manufacture calibres. Its rotor in tungsten monobloc is openwork and satin-brushed with sand-blasted details, and its bridges and mainplate have alternate sand-blasted, polished surfaces and laser decorations.
Its build has been designed to ensure robustness, longevity, reliability and precision, as has its variable inertia balance, which is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with a two-point fixation. Together with its non-magnetic silicon hairspring, the Manufacture Calibre MT5402 is chronometer-certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with its performance going beyond the standards set by this independent institute. In fact, where COSC allows for an average variation in the daily running rate of a watch movement of between -4 and +6 seconds in relation to absolute time, TUDOR applies a tolerance of between -2 and +4 seconds’ variation in its daily rate on the watch fully assembled.
Another notable feature is that the power reserve of the Manufacture MT5402 Calibre is “weekend-proof”; that is to say about 70 hours, which enables the wearer to take the watch off on a Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to wind and reset it.
Calibre MT5402 offers a power reserve of approximately 70 hours.
Like other models in the Black Bay line, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight model features a dial inspired by the TUDOR divers’ watches produced in the 1950’s. It also adopts the characteristic angular hands known to collectors as “snowflake” that appeared in the brand’s 1969 catalogue. Finally, the large winding crown, characteristic of the first generation of TUDOR divers’ watches, is also adopted in this model.
The Black Bay line is the result of the subtle blend of traditional aesthetics and contemporary watchmaking. Far from simply being an identical re-release of a classic, it brings together over 60 years of TUDOR divers’ watches and yet remains firmly anchored in the present. Whilst it is neo-vintage in conception, its manufacturing techniques, reliability, robustness and the quality of its finish are consistent with today’s most rigorous requirements.